The 2022 Handbag Report Card: Which 'It' Bags Were Smart Investments (and Which Were a Total Flop)

Published on: May 16, 2025

A collage of popular 2022 handbags with 'A+' and 'F' grades, illustrating the investment report card concept.

Remember the frenzy for micro-bags and candy-colored totes in 2022? While many of those 'must-have' bags are now gathering dust, a select few have quietly outperformed the hype, appreciating in value on the resale market. This isn't just a trend report; it's an investment retrospective on which 2022 handbags were actually worth your money. As a historian of style and a purveyor of the secondary market, I've seen countless 'It' bags rise and fall. Think of this as the post-mortem for the class of 2022, where we separate the blue-chip assets from the speculative bubbles. We'll dissect which pieces demonstrated true staying power and why others saw their value evaporate faster than a runway trend.

Of course. As a style historian and consignment connoisseur, it is my pleasure to offer a more discerning analysis. Here is my refined evaluation, crafted with the requisite expertise and historical perspective.


A Post-Mortem on the Class of 2022: An Archival Valuation

Within the exclusive echelons of luxury resale, time serves as the ultimate crucible, separating fleeting fancies from enduring icons. An accessory's true provenance and investment-grade status are only revealed in the crucible of the secondary market, years after its debut in the atelier. The initial sticker price is but a whisper; the resounding truth is declared by the figure an astute connoisseur will offer for it once the initial hype has faded. Let us, therefore, conduct a final appraisal of 2022's most notable creations.

Valuation Grade: A+ | The Blue-Chip Acquisition: Saint Laurent Icare Maxi Shopping Bag

Here we have a masterpiece of commercial intuition. The Icare emerged onto a world eagerly re-embracing life, perfectly addressing a newfound yearning for a capacious yet impossibly chic carryall. Its triumph, however, was not merely a consequence of being seen on the arms of style arbiters like Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber; that was a symptom of its inherent brilliance. The bag’s success was rooted in its sublime utility. A perfect alchemy was achieved through the supple quilted lambskin, the prominent but never ostentatious YSL hardware, and its sheer, unadulterated practicality.

In the resale archives, the Icare’s performance is nothing short of laudable. Impeccable black editions consistently command upwards of 90% of their original retail valuation, with some markets even witnessing a modest appreciation. The reason for this is clear: this was no ephemeral trend piece. It stands as a modern codification of a timeless silhouette—the soul of a workhorse sheathed in the sublime body of a show pony. Its investment-worthiness stems from its refusal to rely on gimmicks, making it a bona fide portfolio piece against the backdrop of 2022’s more transient designs.

Valuation Grade: B- | The Ephemeral Starlet: Fendi Fendigraphy

The Fendigraphy was, without question, an undisputed luminary of the 2022 style scene. It was catnip for the digital age; its distinctive half-moon architecture and audacious gold FENDI signature arching across its base made it an object of immediate fascination. The design was photogenic, novel, and a perfect distillation of the prevailing logomania zeitgeist. And yet, its very singularity—the quality that made it so desirable—also proved to be its greatest liability.

Much like a pop anthem whose chorus loses its charm through overexposure, the bag’s novelty began to wane. Consequently, the Fendigraphy’s standing on the secondary market has seen a significant softening. While classic, neutral colorways demonstrate respectable resilience, retaining 50-60% of their initial value, the more adventurous seasonal brights and textiles of 2022 have faltered. It remains a beautifully crafted object, but its design is so indelibly stamped with the aesthetic of its birth year that it lacks the chameleonic quality required for long-term asset appreciation. This is an acquisition of passion, not of portfolio strategy.

Valuation Grade: F | The Icarus of It-Bags: Balenciaga Le Cagole

The Le Cagole represented the zenith of the Y2K renaissance, a cultural lightning rod dripping with the maximalist hardware and moto-infused bravado of its ancestor, the legendary City bag. For one brilliant, searing moment, it was the only accessory that mattered. Its resale valuations on platforms like Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal were stratospheric, often eclipsing retail prices for its most coveted iterations.

Then came the implosion. The house’s deeply controversial advertising campaigns in late 2022 had a catastrophic and instantaneous effect on its market sentiment. As the brand’s flagship It-bag, the Le Cagole bore the full force of the ensuing reputational crisis. Its value didn’t just drop; it evaporated, as collectors and clientele alike sought to distance themselves. This serves as the ultimate cautionary tale in the world of luxury investment: a handbag’s value is irrevocably tethered to the fragile fortunes of its parent brand. When a house’s equity is compromised, the material assets it produces are immediately devalued, regardless of their prior desirability. The very studs and zippers that once signaled its edgy appeal suddenly felt garish, looking more akin to flashy bijoux than a piece of lasting value.

Of course. Here is the rewritten text, meticulously crafted through the lens of a luxury consignment expert and style historian.


Beyond the 'It' Bag: Cultivating an Investor's Eye for Enduring Style

Deciphering the narrative of 2022's most coveted handbags is an essential exercise, arming the discerning collector with foresight for future acquisitions. The acquisition of a significant handbag demands the same connoisseurship one would apply to fine art or a horological masterpiece. Our ultimate ambition, as curators of style, is to possess the discernment to separate ephemeral trends from the kind of perennial elegance that builds a legacy.

Herein lies the foundational lesson: understanding the chasm between a fleeting 'It' bag and a true 'Icon'. An 'Icon'—a quintessential Chanel 2.55, an elegant Hermès Kelly, the ever-reliable Louis Vuitton Speedy—is the blue-chip security of the fashion world. Its value is fortified by decades of unimpeachable brand patrimony and a consistent trajectory of appreciation, offering not just stability but tangible growth. In stark contrast, the 'It' bag operates like a volatile, high-risk startup. Propelled by the jet fuel of social media hype, its ascent can be meteoric, yet it remains perilously vulnerable to the whims of the market, risking a spectacular and sudden descent into obscurity. The most astute collector understands this dichotomy, strategically balancing their portfolio with both, yet never confusing a momentary sensation for a foundational asset.

So, how does one develop this discerning eye? It begins with mastering three core tenets of value, the pillars upon which any significant collection is built.

First, we must examine the provenance and patrimony of the Maison. Does the house possess a rich, unbroken lineage of creating revered and sought-after pieces? A brand's legacy is its very bedrock, a foundation we witnessed could be fractured by a public relations storm, as was the case with Balenciaga.

Next, our attention must turn to the métier and materiality. Has the piece been brought to life in enduring, noble materials like calfskin or lambskin? Or is it a flight of fancy, rendered in a seasonal textile such as raffia or shearling? The integrity of the atelier's construction is not merely a feature; it is the very essence that ensures its longevity, allowing it to mature gracefully into a cherished vintage artifact.

Finally, we assess its aesthetic permanence and functional grace. Can you project this silhouette forward ten, even twenty years, and still see its relevance? The pieces that accrue the most value are those that transcend their own era. A design like the Saint Laurent Icare endures because the oversized carryall is a perennial archetype in a woman's wardrobe. The Fendigraphy, however, presents a greater risk, its form so deeply and specifically rooted in the zeitgeist of the 2020s. A truly transcendent design will always harmonize with other classic elements, from a fine silk carré to an heirloom piece of jewelry, such as a gentleman’s classic gold signet ring, creating a cohesive and timeless statement without discord.

Mastering this method of evaluation is, ultimately, the most crucial skill a collector can possess. It transforms the act of shopping into the art of curation. By applying this discipline, you are not merely assembling a wardrobe; you are building a portfolio of beautiful, tangible assets that appreciate over time—a collection that serves your aesthetic vision while simultaneously securing your investment.

Pros & Cons of The 2022 Handbag Report Card: Which 'It' Bags Were Smart Investments (and Which Were a Total Flop)

Frequently Asked Questions

Which handbag materials hold their value best?

Generally, classic and durable leathers like caviar (grained calfskin), Epsom, and Togo from brands like Chanel and Hermès are the best investments. They are resistant to wear and scratches, maintaining their appearance over decades. Seasonal materials like raffia, canvas, or trendy embellished fabrics tend to lose value much more quickly.

How much does color impact a handbag's resale value?

Color is a critical factor. Classic, neutral colors—black, beige, tan, and grey—have the broadest appeal and consistently command the highest resale values. Bold, seasonal colors can be very popular for a short time but often see their value decrease significantly once the trend passes. If investment is your primary goal, stick to the classics.

Is it ever a smart decision to buy a bag that's considered a 'flop' on the resale market?

Absolutely, but for the right reasons. If you genuinely love a bag for its design and it suits your personal style, you should buy it to wear and enjoy. The 'flop' designation is purely from a financial investment perspective. Not every purchase needs to be an asset. Buy what you love, but do so with the knowledge that it is a personal expense, not a future nest egg.

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handbag investmentresale valueluxury consignment2022 fashion trendsdesigner bags